Mediterranean Mooring Tips

BE PREPARED BEFORE YOU ENTER THE HARBORS!

1. Fenders should be securely tied onto the lifelines or stanchions so that the fender tops are at gunwale level (a double clove hitch will ensure you do not loose fenders). Place more fenders TOWARDS AFT of boat, as this is where you may first come into contact with other boats. No fenders need to be forward of the mast, adjust them later.

2. Stern lines must be prepared and READY to either cast ashore or be stepped ashore by your crew. The lines must be free of rails, shrouds, antenna and so on. Prepare the line ten minutes before mooring by putting a bowline loop in one end and then running that loop over the top of your rails and down around a cleat. Coil up the rest of the line so that when you cast ashore, the line goes directly from the boat cleat to the bollards or rings. The windward stern line goes ashore first and gets secured first. If lines are being thrown, you need someone with strong arms to throw them. The lines must be coiled so that they cast freely. There is NO SENSE in scrambling and casting lines twice because of a knot or because they were cast before the boat was close enough to the wharf. If lines are cast prematurely and go into the water be very careful not to foul the propeller.

3. Only when the stern lines, fenders and the crew are ready and in position (two crew on anchor and two on stern lines and the balance of crew fending with mobile 'walking' fender), should you choose your spot/berth on the wharf. Remember to make sure that you can see the other boats' chains clearly. DO NOT cross anyone else's chain as you risk being tangled. Begin backing up WELL OUT so that you can overcome the boat's 'walk', then get her going straight and lined up with your space. Reduce speed when you have 'WAY' and NEVER let go of the wheel as the boat can steer madly (you can even break your rudder if you are going too fast!). Always face the pier while going backwards - turn your whole body around to face the pier and steer from the other side of the steering pedestal if you are more comfortable.

4. Signal a 'THUMBS DOWN' to anchor people to drop the anchor and pay out ALL the chain when you judge the correct distance (40-60 meters in most cases) away from final mooring space. Try to get every link of chain in the water but the anchor team should be monitoring how much is left in the chain locker. Running to the bitter end can be dangerous because the momentum of the boat breaks the chain from its hold in the locker. The anchor does not do the holding, the CHAIN does all the work - USE IT ALL! The consequences of improper chaining are: other boats grabbing and pulling up/or moving your chain around the harbour, other boats backing you onto the wharf when they are moored or rafted off your bow, or a strong wind or huge ferry swell pushing you back onto the wharf. Watch that the anchor team knows that the chain may get knotted when laying it down. They must watch and be ready to stop, take in chain, undo problems with winch handle or hands and then continue laying out chain. If a big knot happens and holds up the paying out of chain, it can result in swinging the boat off course. The helmsman should be ready to slow the throttle down if there is a problem at the windlass (this must be anticipated and dealt with quickly). One way to make sure the chain pays out well is to always have someone coiling it nicely when taking the chain up at departure. It is not necessary to drive backwards to sink the anchor in as there is no mud or sand on the bottom in most cases (this is why the chain is what the stabilizing force in Greek waters). CONSTANT EYE CONTACT BETWEEN HELMSMAN AND WINDLASS OPERATOR will alleviate any problems that may occur. This eye contact and simple hand signals is vital for clearly understood directions and avoids confusing shouting. Helmsman should never slam the throttle lever back and forth, from backwards to forwards as it may break the cable. Always go to neutral first, then to forward or backward slowly and surely.

5. As you get close to the berth, reduce speed to a snails pace (as long as the wind is not affecting your progress backwards) and get the windward stern line ashore. As soon as it is SECURE, the job/danger is over so it is essential to get the windward stern line done quickly and correctly. Most times your stern lines go around a bollard or ring on shore and then comes back to your cleats aboard (it is wise to have a simple bowline loop over your cleat to start so you don't run out of space on the cleat when the line comes back). Once the line is ashore it can be held up against the bollard or looped twice to temporarily secure before coming back aboard. The chain should run freely out until the skipper gives 'CUT THROAT' signal (usually when helmsman reaches 2-3 meters from sea wall). After stern lines are secured, the chain can be pulled up as tight as a tightrope. YOU ARE SECURE as long as all the chain is in the water 40-60-80-100 meters depending on the boat.

Be very careful with wooden gangplanks and more expensive aluminum ones, as they get smashed to bits on the rough wharfs (you will be charged). There are few modern marinas in Greece. Most harbors offer rudimentary facilities and are often ancient municipal wharfs not modern docks. More dangerous are the wooden planks, which will smash a hole through your transom with harbor traffic swell if they get wedged between the wharf and your transom. Take wooden ones ON or OFF the boat when not in actual use. Raise aluminum planks 2 feet up or roll up lines on wheels 1.5 meters in the air when you go ashore. This will ensure you won't be forced to replace planks and or wheels on bottom of aluminum planks and you will have no unwanted visitors like cats and rats!

Weather

The weather forecast can be obtained at each port from the Port Police office before sailing (they usually forecast 1 Beaufort more than it really is (The international Beaufort scale is used so be familiar with it). However, the best weather source can be obtained at local Internet cafes on all islands at: www.poseidon.ncmr.gr. This is an old US air force base in Crete that is now used as a weather station. They offer very accurate satellite wind speeds and directions on an hourly basis as well as an animated forecast. Check charts, read and follow the 'Greek Waters Pilot Book' by Rod Heikell in the chart table - it is the Bible for the area. If you do not follow that book's recommendations and these tips above, you may have big problems.

Fouled Anchor Tips

Freeing a fouled anchor from chains, other anchors and debris is something that all boaters must be prepared for if they are sailing through the Greek islands. Defensive anchoring techniques will help extensively in preventing tangled chains upon departure. Before anchoring it is essential to look at the angles of the other boats chains as they go into the water. Do a pass-by of other boats bows to see where other boats may have dropped and always try to lay your chain parallel to other boats chains. Another preventative action is to watch as other boats moor beside you. If they are crossing your chain sit at the bow with a whistle and get the other boat's attention. Indicate to them where your chain and anchor lies using a straight-arm signal.

If you do get fouled on a chain or an obstruction: First try to free it by dropping your anchor again using the manual quick release of the windlass. This sometimes works. If you are really stuck bring the obstruction to the surface. Time is of the essence. Have a sinking rope (stern line) and the boat hook ready. Put a bowline loop in one end of the line and slip the loop around a cleat up at the bow. Working quickly, slip the other end of the rope into the water around the fouling chain or object with the boat hook. *Never use the boat hook to lift a fouling object as the aluminum /plastic hooks will break apart under the load and you will have to replace them. Pull the loose end of the line up onto the deck, pull the slack out of the line and then cleat it off securely to the same cleat you looped the other end on. Now, use the down button on the windlass to release the load onto your surrounding line. Once the load of the fouling object is being held by your line, use the boat hook to pull your anchor and chain free from the fouling anchor/chain or obstruction. Sometimes using the windlass down command can help you unwrap your chain or anchor from the obstruction. Once it is freed bring your anchor all the way in with the windlass button. To release and free the other yacht's chain, anchor or obstruction untie one end of your line. Be very careful, as there is a load in this line. It is considerate to bring your fellow yachtsman's anchor and chain back where it should be before releasing your surrounding line.

Sometimes chains are so tangled that snorkeling is required to free up obstructions. If you swim in harbors make sure to clean yourself thoroughly and try not to get any water in your eyes as the water quality in some ports is very poor. *It is essential that good bow to helm communication occurs during the procedure and that it is done quickly and efficiently, as strong winds and small harbors can make for very dangerous boat maneuvering situations. The helmsman must know where to drive the bow and when to remain stationary. Divers in the water must work with extreme caution.

Secure Overnight and Heavy Weather Anchoring

As mentioned the 5 to 1, or 7 to 1, scope to depth ratio is something that does not apply in the strong gales and bad holding bays and ports of Greece. Always use ALL YOUR CHAIN. You never know when a gale will come up at night. If you are moored and the wind does come up have the dinghy and the auxiliary anchor prepped and ready. A second anchor at 45 degrees usually does the trick or attach the second anchor and chain to your main anchor and use both. A line to shore can give a good measure of security if you are moored in a bay.